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Kayla Smith

March 11, 2023

The Unearthly Wonder of Cappadocia and a Farewell to Istanbul

We left Pamukkale to drive 9 hours to the highlight and final destination of our tour—Cappadocia. When you see photos of Turkey, it’s so often photos of the hot air balloons over Cappadocia. You see the travel influencers on social media posing alone on rooftops in flowing gowns with the balloons floating around them like giant, incandescent bubbles. (How much are they paying to stand on this rooftop alone, I used to wonder. Now I know it’s actually not as much as you’d think.) These types of places usually give us expectations that reality can never match. But this was one of those rare exceptions where photos could never do the experience of it justice. This is officially the farthest from home I’ve ever been, and it looks like another planet. Most places you visit for the first time remind you of somewhere else, but Cappadocia doesn’t look like anything I’ve ever seen before.

Millions of years ago, volcanic eruptions covered this region with ash that eventually hardened into a soft volcanic rock. The rock eroded over time into the otherworldly landscape that Cappadocia is today. People burrowed underground and built entire cities in tunnels. Others carved their homes and churches into the cliffside rocks. Natural erosion and rivers created valleys and the fairy chimneys—rock formations that look like pillars and cones and skinny beehives. The mystery of it is haunting.

 

We wandered through the claustrophobic underground city of Derinkuyu, where 20,000 people once lived. We visited the Goreme Open Air Museum where 1,000-year-old churches were built into the cliffsides and still have original paintings covering their walls. We visited a jewelry store to learn about the gems that only exist in this area of the world, and we visited a co-op where women spend all day weaving the famous Turkish rugs with their hands. We ate pottery kabobs which were like a stew cooked inside enclosed pottery that you had to break with a hammer to eat. It was so delicious that I ate it in spite of fearing that I was consuming pottery shards. We tasted the thickest yogurt you can imagine with local honey and sesame seeds, and if my body would allow me to consume so much lactose I’d eat it for every meal.

 

In the morning, we got up before the sunrise to watch the balloons. Hundreds of them fly together at sunrise every morning, and it’s like this strange constellation of color. Most of the group went to ride the balloons, but Michael, one of our tourmates, and I decided to watch from the ground instead. We took a taxi to a view-point while it was still dark outside, and we watched the balloons rise as the sun crept up behind them. Of all the towns and cities I visited on my trip, this is one where I desperately wished to stay longer.

It was a long ride back to Istanbul. We passed Turkey’s capital, Ankara, which looked like miles and miles of skyscrapers in the distance. We made it back to Istanbul that evening. After traveling over 1,700 miles together in 12 days, we had to say goodbye to our tourmates/new friends. (Come to New Orleans and see us, tour friends!) I was glad to have an extra couple of days in the city after the tour ended. The two weeks we’d spent in Turkey at that point were like an orientation to teach us about all the things we still needed to see.

We got to spend one more night in our fancy hotel (and enjoy our last of many all-you-can-eat hotel buffets) before moving to a hostel for the final night. I’d slept in so many hostels at that point that it felt like moving from a hotel to the home of a friend. Cheers Vintage Hostel is just blocks away from the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, and they are the kindest people. They also have a hostel dog named Milo who greeted us outside when we arrived and who I adored.

We spent two more days exploring neighborhoods we hadn’t seen yet like Belat (where the houses were painted more colors than I had names for and home to the world’s best chocolate sorbet), Ortakoy (neighborhood of the best Turkish breakfast with a view), and Besiktas (home of the most beautiful bookstore in Istanbul). We took a ferry to Kadikoy on the Asian side of the city for dinner. It felt more chaotic than the European side, full of street dogs and cafes overflowing with people and bass beating through my shoes as we passed bars and clubs.

On the last day, we visited a small mosque that I found online. The only mosques I’d ever visited had been the major tourist mosques in Turkey and the Hassan II in Casablanca (the largest mosque in Africa and the only mosque in Morocco that non-Muslims are allowed to enter). I wanted to see what it was like inside a smaller mosque and without the crowds. Michael and I were the only tourists there, and we waited for the midday prayer to end before going inside. If you visit Istanbul, you must visit the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, but I’d encourage everyone to prioritize visiting a smaller mosque, too. It gives you a more authentic glimpse of the places where most locals are going to pray, it’s far more intimate, and it’s just as beautiful.

That evening, we packed up our belongings, told Milo the hostel dog goodbye, and went to catch our trusty night train back to Bulgaria.

    

Posted In: Cappadocia, Istanbul, Uncategorized

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Writer, educator, book lover, explorer, map collector, and elderly dog lover. Sharing thoughts, stories, and wonder as I go.

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kaylamichellesmith

During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, I twisted my ankle, a tour I wanted to do was canceled, and I lost my debit card. But despite all this, I knew nearly immediately that I was obsessed with this city. 

Sarajevo isn’t the most beautiful place I’ve ever been, but it’s one of the most fascinating. The little I knew about Sarajevo, and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina, before visiting was outdated by 30 years. The war here happened so recently that my school textbooks were published before it but so long ago that I barely remember. The first time I ever heard of a place called Bosnia, long before I could find it on a map, was in a kid’s chapter book about the war, and what I took away from the story was that this was a terrifying and dangerous place that a person should never visit. 

What a gift it is to be able to correct your own past assumptions.

When I think about which places I’ve visited that I want to return to, Sarajevo is near the top of that list.
Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia felt like heading into the Wild West—this was a very different Europe than I’d visited before. And to be honest, my first impression of Belgrade was not a good one. We arrived late at night after bus delays, and the bus station was closed. Late night transportation  options were questionable, and taxi drivers kept approaching way too eagerly and offering rides for ridiculous prices. This could have happened in any city, but in the moment it felt sketchy and tense.

The next morning, the city felt considerably less sketchy but still cold and unwelcoming. It took half a day, but finally we found a couple modern and popular areas of town full of bookstores and music and better vibes. And while I still wouldn’t say I liked Belgrade much, I’m glad I visited and glad that I was able to change my mind after my initial impression. And of course, I ended up loving the rest of the Balkans. 

I know so many people who LOVE Serbia. I’d love to go back and explore more of the country to find why they love it.
My monthly reminder that most of my photos are act My monthly reminder that most of my photos are actually dog photos and that I’m at my kitchen table far more often than I’m traveling. August had some lovely moments. @1samanthaaldana  @lindaa.xoxoxo
If you’ve ever wondered what I’m doing when I’m away traveling, it’s usually this. 

(Is there a single one of you who’s gonna watch 50 entires seconds of bookstores? @thebookeasy friends, I’m counting on you! 😂) 

Everyone, drop your favorite bookstore in the world in the comments! I’ll add them all to my travel list! 

I think my favorite of all these is @carturesticarusel in Bucharest. It’s indescribably magical.
For over a decade, countless people have told me I For over a decade, countless people have told me I should pursue a job as a travel advisor. I’m so glad I finally decided they were right. @hellofora 

Nothing brings me as much joy as helping others travel. But Instagram and its mysterious algorithm can only go so far in helping me reach people who want to hear more about what I can offer. So…I’ve decided to start a newsletter! 

In my newsletter, I’ll share special deals, perks, tips, and news for all types of travelers. I am planning to send a newsletter just once or twice per month, and you can trust that I won’t spam you! 

If you’d like to receive the newsletter, you can comment “Me!” below, and I’ll send you the easy sign up link! And I’ll be forever grateful if you help spread the word!
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