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Kayla Smith

October 3, 2023

Gluttony, the Oldest University in Europe, and Finally Making it to Bologna, Italy, After 12 Years of Trying

There was a brief time when I thought I might study abroad in Bologna, Italy. My university held a summer program in Bologna each summer, and for a while, it seemed crucial that I find a way to do it. Before starting college, I was 100% certain that I’d study abroad. I dreamed of spending a semester, or even a year, wandering the streets of some European city (in my imagination, it was always in Italy). And then I got into Brown University, my dream school, and suddenly the thought of spending even one semester of the precious 8 I’d been gifted there felt absurd to consider. So I decided I’d do a summer abroad program instead. The problem with summer abroad programs is that they are very, very expensive. Semester programs cost, in theory, no more than you’d pay at your regular university because you’re still paying your school’s tuition and receiving the same amount of financial aid that you would at home, but summer school is an optional choice and financial aid barely covers anything. I went to the financial aid office at my school and asked if there was any possibility of receiving more financial aid for the summer program. And there really wasn’t.

I’d like to note that Brown is very generous with their need-based aid, so this is not a criticism! My tuition at Brown was covered by need-based grants, and their financial aid package has only improved since then. It’s just that summer study fell outside of the realm of what aid could really help me do. If I remember correctly, the program was either 3 weeks or a month long and cost roughly the same amount that I spent in about 4 months in Europe (and did not include airfare). There was no way I could afford to do it. I stalked Facebook photos of the classmates I knew who went on the program and felt so jealous I could burst. And I vowed then that I’d get there another way.

And so I did. Last November, almost 12 years after not going on the study abroad program, I finally arrived on the train in Bologna.

Bologna is famous for a lot of things—its university, its vibrant culture, and perhaps most important of all, its food. It’s only about 45 minutes on the fastest train from Florence and about 1.5 hours from Venice, so a lot of people visit on a daytrip. If you’re short on time, it’s definitely worth a day trip, but if you have time to spare, it’s worth staying for a while.

In most hostels where I stayed in shared dorm rooms, I opted for a female only room. This was less about safety and more because female-only rooms tend to be a little cleaner and guys tend to snore louder. (I’m sorry, but this is a fact.) In my hostel in Bologna (Nosadillo Hostel), the female-only room was full, so I ended up in a room with several new pals who I would not have met otherwise. There was a sports journalist who was in Bologna to cover an important soccer game. When he’s sent on assignment, he elects to stay for a few nights in hostels because he loves meeting people. There was a university student who was interning in Albania for the semester and came to Italy for a long weekend. And there was a guy from Turkey in town for his job who told me that he dreams of his wife being able to travel with him one day. He always brings her souvenirs back from his trips and tells her what to look forward to when they can travel together in the future. Everyone was excessively kind.

On my first day, I did a tour of the city to learn more about the history. I learned that Bologna is nicknamed the Red City because of its red tiled roofs, but also more recently because of its leftist politics. Because of the university, the population of the city is very young and international, and therefore more liberal than most of Italy. It was one of the most crowded cities I’d visited since summer ended, but it wasn’t because it was full of tourists—it was just the fall-semester university crowds which keep the city lively year-round. The city is small enough that its entirely walkable, and narrow streets are lined with enough restaurants, clothing stores, bookshops, and art shops to keep a person occupied for months. Unlike Verona, Bologna felt like an Italy I was familiar with.

The University of Bologna (where Brown had the study abroad program) is the oldest university in Europe, and some claim it’s the oldest in the world. (There’s some debate about it being the oldest in the world because the University of Al-Qarawiyyin in Fez, Morocco, was established earlier in 859 AD, BUT it was first founded as a mosque before becoming an educational center. The University of Bologna was established in 1088 AD which is about 1000 years older than I can comprehend. What’s not disputed is that it was the first ever degree-awarding institution of higher education.

 

In the old medical school, you can pay a small fee to visit the Anatomical Theater of Archiginnasio. An anatomical theater is a room where medical students used to observe the dissection of human and animal bodies. The seats surround the center table where the cadaver would lay. The theater was nearly destroyed in WWII, but it was carefully reconstructed with the original materials to look as it did when it was built. In the 17th century, the human cadavers in Bologna were dissected by candlelight. Surgeons would consult the stars before they performed surgeries, so the ceiling is decorated with astrological symbols. The room is gorgeous and only slightly creepy, and it made me feel like I was either in Hogwarts or in a secret society meeting in Leigh Bardugo’s Ninth House series.

I spent 3 nights in Bolgona, and my main priority for the whole stay was to eat every delicious thing in sight. Bologna is known for its Bolognese sauce, lasagna, tagliatelle al ragu, and mortadella. I heard that one of the best restaurants in town was a small place called Sfoglia Rina, and I it took me 3 tries before the line was short enough for me to get inside. But trust me when I tell you that it wasn’t overhyped—it’s just small and they don’t take reservations. It was truly worth the line(s). They brought me the menu on a hand-written chalkboard, and all pastas cost $11 or less and included a side. Of all the pastas I ate in Bologna, that one was easily the best. In between meals, I got small pastries from famous bakeries and really exhibited a shameful level of gluttony, and I highly recommend this choice. But something I learned in Bologna is that even though the city is known for having the best food in Italy, it didn’t really surpass the food in Florence or Rome for me. And that’s not to say that I was unimpressed with the food in Bologna (I was very impressed)—it’s more to assure you that no matter where you go in Italy, you will have remarkable food available to you.

 

As I wandered around the university section of the city, I thought about what it might have been like if I’d been able to study abroad there. And there’s really no part of me that doesn’t prefer the way things worked out instead. Since I didn’t get to study abroad, I had to find a different path to Italy (more about that in a couple of blog posts), and that journey led to every job and opportunity I’ve had since. Today I work for a company that sends students on study abroad and exchange programs, and I think differently about what that opportunity means and who it’s available for. I’d rather spend the same amount of money to travel solo for 4 times as long every time.

 

Posted In: Bologna · Tagged: Bolgona, Italy

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kaylamichellesmith

During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, I twisted my ankle, a tour I wanted to do was canceled, and I lost my debit card. But despite all this, I knew nearly immediately that I was obsessed with this city. 

Sarajevo isn’t the most beautiful place I’ve ever been, but it’s one of the most fascinating. The little I knew about Sarajevo, and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina, before visiting was outdated by 30 years. The war here happened so recently that my school textbooks were published before it but so long ago that I barely remember. The first time I ever heard of a place called Bosnia, long before I could find it on a map, was in a kid’s chapter book about the war, and what I took away from the story was that this was a terrifying and dangerous place that a person should never visit. 

What a gift it is to be able to correct your own past assumptions.

When I think about which places I’ve visited that I want to return to, Sarajevo is near the top of that list.
Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia felt like heading into the Wild West—this was a very different Europe than I’d visited before. And to be honest, my first impression of Belgrade was not a good one. We arrived late at night after bus delays, and the bus station was closed. Late night transportation  options were questionable, and taxi drivers kept approaching way too eagerly and offering rides for ridiculous prices. This could have happened in any city, but in the moment it felt sketchy and tense.

The next morning, the city felt considerably less sketchy but still cold and unwelcoming. It took half a day, but finally we found a couple modern and popular areas of town full of bookstores and music and better vibes. And while I still wouldn’t say I liked Belgrade much, I’m glad I visited and glad that I was able to change my mind after my initial impression. And of course, I ended up loving the rest of the Balkans. 

I know so many people who LOVE Serbia. I’d love to go back and explore more of the country to find why they love it.
My monthly reminder that most of my photos are act My monthly reminder that most of my photos are actually dog photos and that I’m at my kitchen table far more often than I’m traveling. August had some lovely moments. @1samanthaaldana  @lindaa.xoxoxo
If you’ve ever wondered what I’m doing when I’m away traveling, it’s usually this. 

(Is there a single one of you who’s gonna watch 50 entires seconds of bookstores? @thebookeasy friends, I’m counting on you! 😂) 

Everyone, drop your favorite bookstore in the world in the comments! I’ll add them all to my travel list! 

I think my favorite of all these is @carturesticarusel in Bucharest. It’s indescribably magical.
For over a decade, countless people have told me I For over a decade, countless people have told me I should pursue a job as a travel advisor. I’m so glad I finally decided they were right. @hellofora 

Nothing brings me as much joy as helping others travel. But Instagram and its mysterious algorithm can only go so far in helping me reach people who want to hear more about what I can offer. So…I’ve decided to start a newsletter! 

In my newsletter, I’ll share special deals, perks, tips, and news for all types of travelers. I am planning to send a newsletter just once or twice per month, and you can trust that I won’t spam you! 

If you’d like to receive the newsletter, you can comment “Me!” below, and I’ll send you the easy sign up link! And I’ll be forever grateful if you help spread the word!
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