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Kayla Smith

February 8, 2024

My First Glimpse of the Yucatan Peninsula, and Why I Did Not Like Cancun

A couple years ago when we were all feeling restless from quarantine, I started thinking about a trip to Mexico. My mom was going through cancer treatment, so I knew that I didn’t want to go anywhere for more than a long weekend, and I started thinking about affordable options. At first, I thought about destinations within a day’s drive of our home in New Orleans, but all of the options were places I’d been before, and none of them felt exciting to me. So I browsed flights instead and realized that a direct flight to the Yucatan Peninsula from New Orleans takes about 2 hours—less time than any road trip I’d considered—and tickets were cheap. I found an absurdly cheap Airbnb and Michael and I booked our flights. As I mentioned in my previous post, I knew I wanted to return to Mexico one day to truly experience it instead of getting a quick and limited glimpse. This seemed like the right time. But then a new Covid strain made everyone pause, our foster dog got sick, and my mom’s surgery schedule changed. We postponed. Then we postponed again. And again. And then it was so close to my Europe trip that I postponed it indefinitely.

After returning from Europe, I started plotting my next international trip. I got a new job offer in the fall, and I figured I could squeeze a trip in before starting it. I knew that this trip would be entirely different than my Europe trip had been. I’d need to work remotely for part of it. I had barely any money saved. But still, I was determined to go. And what I initially planned to be a long-weekend turned into something a bit longer.

Michael dropped me off at the bus station at 4:00am so I could take the public bus to the airport for my 6:00am flight. It was the day after my 34th birthday. I thought about how it was just after my 30th birthday that I flew to Morocco and Portugal and how much the world (and I) had changed since then. That trip had been a three-week trip—the longest trip I’d ever done just for myself instead of for a job. I’d had to ask for 11 days off work to do it, and it felt like an outlandishly brazen request. I was going to Mexico for three weeks, as well, but this time three weeks felt like a casual little jaunt.

I think I’m braver when I’m alone, so I decided I’d stand a better chance of not panicking if I didn’t let Michael drive me to the airport. (He didn’t join me for any of this trip because he was working and taking classes.) And I didn’t panic. I think early flights in a half-delirious state are much easier than flights that I’ve had hours of the day to think about. The short flights made it easier, too. I didn’t have a direct flight, but it was just an hour to Atlanta and then a two-hour flight from there. It was the first time in years (YEARS) that I haven’t felt panicked before a flight.

The Mexican part of the Yucatan Peninsula is comprised of three Mexican states: Yucatan, Quintana Roo, and Campeche. I decided I wanted to base myself in Merida, the capital of the Yucatan state, but international flights to Merida are limited, so it can be expensive. Flying into Cancun (in Quintana Roo, the Yucatan’s neighboring state) saved me over $200. And that’s how I ended up flying to a city that I not-so-secretly imagined I’d hate.

When I told people I was traveling to the Yucatan, a mark of how well they knew me was whether or not their response was, “Oh, to Cancun?” Because since my first awareness of Cancun back when MTV Spring Break was a thing, I assumed it would be a place that I’d despise. Cancun didn’t exist until the 1970s, and it was created as a planned city for the purpose of fostering tourism. Nothing in Cancun is culturally “authentic” because the town came into existence solely for tourism. Long hours of beach-sitting and resorts are not things I have any personal interest in, and I’d far rather hide somewhere with a book than engage in loud nightlife. But I needed to spend one night in Cancun before my bus to Merida the next morning.

It was an odd welcome. Outside the airport, there were probably 100 taxi drivers aggressively haggling with tourists. Perhaps they thought whoever was loudest would succeed at the chance to cheat tourists of their money? It must have worked enough times for them to keep doing it. I took a bus for $7 into the city instead.

To be fair, I was barely in Cancun for long enough to have a real impression of it. All I saw of downtown Cancun was the 5-minute walk from the bus station to my hostel. It looked far more run-down than I imagined it would look, like there haven’t been any updates or repairs since downtown was built in the 1970s. (This is not where most tourists stay in the city—the resorts are a few miles away on a stretch of beach called the “Hotel Zone.”) It felt chaotic. Downtown Cancun is NOT a place I’d walk around by myself late at night. It was dark once I checked into my room, so I didn’t even go see the beach (a short shuttle ride down the street). I stayed in the hostel the rest of the night.

I didn’t see Cancun again until arriving there three weeks later the evening before my return flight home. This time, I was determined to see the beach. I took the public bus to the Hotel Zone and finally got a glimpse of the Cancun that people go to see. It looked like what I imagine Los Vegas looks like, but on a beach. Every resort was massive and flashy. I saw four or five malls, each of them larger and fancier than the next. We passed Hooters, Bubba Gump Shrimp, Ruth’s Chris Steak House, the Hard Rock Café, and it was very clear that this was not Mexico. Tourism had just created a (perhaps slightly less expensive) version of America in the Hotel Zone. It is possible for American tourists to visit Cancun and never experience one moment of culture that is not entirely and intentionally crafted for their comfort, and it made me overwhelmingly sad.

Sometimes I get nervous and feel that I need to self-censor. I worry that I may come across as one of those insufferable travelers who feel that “tourists” are inferior to them (as if all of us who travel aren’t, by definition, tourists). That’s not how I feel. There’s nothing wrong with taking vacations for the sole purpose of relaxing. There’s nothing wrong with lying by a pool for a week and never leaving the resort grounds if you don’t want to. And there’s nothing wrong with enjoying luxury. There are many people for whom the resort towns of Quintana Roo are absolute paradise. What pains me is when people have been tricked into believing that this is the ONLY kind of vacation one can have in Mexico, and that leaving the resort grounds isn’t “safe.” It pains me that there are people who feel they have traveled internationally to Mexico (or any other resort destination) and never encountered one local resident apart from their resort staff.

In the Hotel Zone I walked about a mile down the sidewalk past giant circle drives of resort after resort. The walls of most of them were too high for me to see over. The beach is blocked unless you’re a resort guest. I stopped at a public beach area in the dark for five minutes. And then I took the public bus back to downtown and ate tacos across the street from my hostel. So I really might be the least trustworthy person to give you any opinion or advice in regard to Cancun. But my thoughts are these: unless you’re going with the sole purpose of enjoying an all-inclusive resort, Cancun is not the place you want. If you want to see local culture, Cancun is not the place you want. (Though you CAN do lots of neat day trips from Cancun, so it might make sense if you want to use it as a base for days trips in the region.) Do not let Cancun paint your perception of what Mexico or Yucatan culture is.

But my hostel was lovely! And the travelers I met there were lovely. Most backpackers in Mexico make their way through Cancun for a brief stop at some point, and everyone has good stories to tell. My hostel roommate was solo-traveling through Mexico and America from Australia. We met two new friends while eating dinner at the rooftop bar. One used to be a foreign correspondent in war zones and now has a tech job he can do from anywhere. One is a geophysicist who was in town for a swing dancing festival. My intended early bed-time turned into us chatting for 3 hours. It was the perfect way to start my trip. Through the wall of my hostel room, I could hear music from The Nutcracker playing. It must have been a dance school rehearsing for their Christmas show. I fell asleep and woke up before the sun again for my bus ride the next morning. From my research, I thought Merida would be very different than Cancun, and I hoped I was right.

 

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Posted In: Cancun, Quintana Roo, Yucatan Peninsula · Tagged: Cancun, Mayan Riviera, Quintana Roo, Yucatan Peninsula

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Writer, educator, book lover, explorer, map collector, and elderly dog lover. Sharing thoughts, stories, and wonder as I go.

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kaylamichellesmith

During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, During the 24 hours I was in Sarajevo, it stormed, I twisted my ankle, a tour I wanted to do was canceled, and I lost my debit card. But despite all this, I knew nearly immediately that I was obsessed with this city. 

Sarajevo isn’t the most beautiful place I’ve ever been, but it’s one of the most fascinating. The little I knew about Sarajevo, and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina, before visiting was outdated by 30 years. The war here happened so recently that my school textbooks were published before it but so long ago that I barely remember. The first time I ever heard of a place called Bosnia, long before I could find it on a map, was in a kid’s chapter book about the war, and what I took away from the story was that this was a terrifying and dangerous place that a person should never visit. 

What a gift it is to be able to correct your own past assumptions.

When I think about which places I’ve visited that I want to return to, Sarajevo is near the top of that list.
Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia Leaving Budapest and the Schengen zone for Serbia felt like heading into the Wild West—this was a very different Europe than I’d visited before. And to be honest, my first impression of Belgrade was not a good one. We arrived late at night after bus delays, and the bus station was closed. Late night transportation  options were questionable, and taxi drivers kept approaching way too eagerly and offering rides for ridiculous prices. This could have happened in any city, but in the moment it felt sketchy and tense.

The next morning, the city felt considerably less sketchy but still cold and unwelcoming. It took half a day, but finally we found a couple modern and popular areas of town full of bookstores and music and better vibes. And while I still wouldn’t say I liked Belgrade much, I’m glad I visited and glad that I was able to change my mind after my initial impression. And of course, I ended up loving the rest of the Balkans. 

I know so many people who LOVE Serbia. I’d love to go back and explore more of the country to find why they love it.
My monthly reminder that most of my photos are act My monthly reminder that most of my photos are actually dog photos and that I’m at my kitchen table far more often than I’m traveling. August had some lovely moments. @1samanthaaldana  @lindaa.xoxoxo
If you’ve ever wondered what I’m doing when I’m away traveling, it’s usually this. 

(Is there a single one of you who’s gonna watch 50 entires seconds of bookstores? @thebookeasy friends, I’m counting on you! 😂) 

Everyone, drop your favorite bookstore in the world in the comments! I’ll add them all to my travel list! 

I think my favorite of all these is @carturesticarusel in Bucharest. It’s indescribably magical.
For over a decade, countless people have told me I For over a decade, countless people have told me I should pursue a job as a travel advisor. I’m so glad I finally decided they were right. @hellofora 

Nothing brings me as much joy as helping others travel. But Instagram and its mysterious algorithm can only go so far in helping me reach people who want to hear more about what I can offer. So…I’ve decided to start a newsletter! 

In my newsletter, I’ll share special deals, perks, tips, and news for all types of travelers. I am planning to send a newsletter just once or twice per month, and you can trust that I won’t spam you! 

If you’d like to receive the newsletter, you can comment “Me!” below, and I’ll send you the easy sign up link! And I’ll be forever grateful if you help spread the word!
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